Vintage Vegas: Unstuffy sommelier has uncorked joy at Hugo’s Cellar for 37 years

Wednesday, May 5, 2021 7:51 PM
  • Hillary Davis, Las Vegas Sun

Hugo’s Cellar has had only two full-time sommeliers over the last 41 years. Jon Simmons has been their man for 37 of them.

As Las Vegas’ current elder statesman of wine, Simmons is now pouring glasses for the grandchildren of his original customers in the inconspicuous yet legendary fine dining spot inside Four Queens. No active sommelier in Las Vegas is believed to have been at it longer.

Simmons now refers to himself, cheerfully and charmingly as is his wont, as an “old geezer.”

Simply, wine and people have kept Simmons in his tastevin, the shallow cup often worn around the neck of sommeliers, all this time.